Declawing Cats — You can prevent gun violence by removing people’s fingers too.

Continuing in the vein of turning our most frequently asked questions into informative articles: “Do you declaw cats?” is a definite top 10 in our inbox. And we’re excited that you asked! Our lovable feline furballs are proverbial thorned roses when it comes to their clawed weaponry, and those little daggers are painful on skin and damaging to furniture. We get that. But the answer is still no, we do not declaw cats and we urge you to do your research carefully before making a decision that will dramatically affect your loved one for the rest of their life. Declawing has immediate and life-long impacts so please, read on to learn more about it.

Declawing is more than just a permanent nail trim, it’s an amputation of the last bone of each toe. Aside from the initial pain associated with amputation, the procedure is significant because of the way that cats walk. Unlike humans who are plantigrade and walk on the soles of our feet, cats are digitigrade, meaning that they walk on their toes. Because of this, declawing forces them to walk on bones that were never designed for that purpose. This results in permanent physiological effects on a cat’s body, including issues such as chronic back pain and the development of arthritis. Unfortunately, that’s not the only complication that can arise from declawing surgery.

A 2017 study published in the Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery found that declawed cats experienced “significant increases in the odds of back pain, periuria/perichezia (urinating and defecating outside of the litter box), and biting.” It’s been theorized that the inappropriate urinating and defecating is due to the painful experience that newly declawed cats may have when they use the litter box after surgery. While this may play a role in future litter box problems, it seems likely that other pain associated with declawing is often the bigger culprit. Incomplete amputations leave fragments of bone behind and can sometimes result in the growth of deformed claws. This typically isn’t visible to the naked eye, meaning cats can have lifelong discomfort and pain unless they are properly diagnosed and undergo a second surgery. Unfortunately, new research suggests this is fairly common; 63% of the declawed cats in the aforementioned study showed radiographic evidence of residual P3 fragments (“P3” is third phalanx, the toe that claws grow out of and the part removed during declaw surgery). The increase in biting that was noted corroborates anecdotal evidence that declawed cats tend to bite more. Claws are the cat’s first line of defense, and removing them may leave cats feeling vulnerable and more likely to bite.

The bottom line is that declawing is a painful surgery that can have lifelong impacts. While pain can and should be appropriately managed, it should also be avoided if at all possible. What we’re talking about is an elective surgery that doesn’t benefit the cat — rather than trying to manage lifelong consequences, it’s easier not to cause them.

[George: Declawing would be the feline rough equivalent of trying to prevent school shootings by removing people’s fingers.]

Fortunately, there are better alternatives!

Scratching is normal cat behavior and it’s going to happen whether or not you trim nails and get your cat a scratching post, so it’s probably better that you just do those things (although if sharp claws don’t bother you and your couch already has a thousand yard stare, you’re under no obligation). Cats will scratch, just think of it as being like eating or pooping for them. The goal is to redirect it away from valuables and minimize the damage associated with it. Routine nail trimming is your biggest ally when it comes to keeping your cat happy and your skin and furniture intact. It seems obvious but it makes a world of difference. Trimming every 2-3 weeks is usually sufficient and it can be done at home (or by a groomer or vet if you’re not comfortable doing it yourself, or if you’d like to see a professional do it first). The more positive associations you make with nail trims, the quicker your cat will become accustomed to it.

Before you start trimming it’s important to get your cat used to having their paws handled and touched. Do this during petting when the cat is relaxed and happy and stop before the cat becomes stressed or agitated. Gently examine the claws for a moment and reward the cat by letting go and giving some more relaxing pets.

To trim your cat’s nails you may use either a sharp human nail clipper or a specialty clippers purchased from a pet store (human nail clippers work in a pinch but it’s worth investing in a cat-specific pair). Your cat should be resting comfortably on your lap, floor, or a table. Hold the paw in one hand and gently press a toe pad to extend the claw. Notice the pink tissue inside the claw? This is the quick, which is living tissue, so avoid cutting into it as it will cause pain and bleeding. You probably also want to avoid cutting too close to it as well, since this can create an uncomfortable pinching sensation for the cat. Unlike dogs who frequently have dark or black nails, cat nails are almost always clear so it’s easy to see and avoid the quick. Trim the nail by clipping off the sharp, hook-like tip of the claw.

Ideally try to cut parallel to the ground to avoid pressuring the sensitive part of the nail.

When you are ready to trim you may want a helper so one person can hold the cat while the other trims. Start off slowly by trimming one nail at a time and then immediately rewarding the cat with a treat. It’s best to trim nails when the cat is relaxed and sleepy and not after a stressful event or an energetic round of play. If your cat becomes upset give them a break. Take baby steps; the goal is to make nail trims stress free for both you and your cat.

Scratching is normal cat behavior and cats do it for several reasons. Scratching is part of grooming because it helps remove the outer husk of the claw. It also marks their territory, both because of the physical scratches they leave and because of the scent glands in paw pads; fortunately the smell they leave behind isn’t detectable to humans, only other cats. Scratching also just plain feels good. When a cat scratches they stretch out and work their muscles, helping to keep them toned and healthy. Cats are going to scratch regardless of whether or not they have a designated scratching post, so it’s best to provide them with one for your own sanity.

A good scratching post is an absolute must and bad ones might as well not exist at all as far as your cat is concerned. Pick out one that’s tall enough for your cat to fully stretch out on, is sturdy (your cat isn’t going to trust something wobbly), and is covered with material that provides some resistance like berber carpeting (it’s looped, not plush), sisal rope, or sisal material. The Ultimate Scratching Post lives up to its name and is hands-down my top pick. It meets all the criteria, lasts for years, and doesn’t break the bank. But if you don’t have $50 to drop on a piece of cat furniture right now, consider getting a corrugated scratching box (actually, consider getting one even if you get a nice scratching post, too). Though fancier options exist, you can usually find a simple corrugated scratcher anywhere from Amazon to pet stores to big box stores like Farm and Fleet and Walmart for under $10. They lay flat on the floor and kitties love them. They don’t last forever but then again, it’s made out of cardboard and you bought it for ten bucks. Remember that it comes with a second side, so flip it over when the first side is worn out.

The placement of the scratching post is almost as important as the post itself. If your cat has already chosen a favorite place in your home to scratch, try to put it near there. Since marking their territory is part of the reason that cats scratch, make sure to put it in a central living area where your cats spends a lot of time. Introduce your cat to their new furniture by scratching on it with your fingernails, sprinkling some catnip on it, or enticing your kitty to scratch on it by dangling a toy nearby. Scratching is self-rewarding so once your cat has figured out that it’s a good place to scratch they’ll keep coming back. If your cat has already picked out an inappropriate place to scratch, like your couch, make it less appealing by putting packing tape or tinfoil over the area. You can take it off again after they realize how awesome their new scratching post is.

Q: What about laser declaws?

A: While this may seem like a medical advancement that helps ease the pain of surgery and speed up recovery, this approach may not be a great alternative. If the surgery isn’t performed by a veterinarian proficient in using the equipment, laser declaws can result in charred bone which increases the pain and recovery time. Basically, think about the last time you burned yourself. Remember how long that took to heal? Burns do not heal quickly, the same is true of burnt bone.

Q: But what about owners who are immunocompromised, on blood thinners, or have other circumstances in which they absolutely cannot risk getting scratched?

A: Luckily there’s another option – claw caps. Claw caps, also known as Soft Paws or Kitty Caps, are vinyl nail caps that are glued over the cat’s existing nail. They are a humane alternative to declawing; although it might take a little time for the kitty to get used to wearing them, they are painless and allow normal extension and retraction of the nail. Claw caps come in an array of bright colors (some are even sparkly), though there’s also clear caps if you don’t want your cat to look like she just got back from the salon with a hot pink mani/pedi. Like nail trimming they can be applied at home, or you can employ the expertise of a groomer or veterinarian depending on your comfort level. They need to be replaced when the outer sheath of the nail is shed, which happens about every 4-6 weeks. They usually run about $15-$20 for 40 caps (so roughly a year’s supply).

Again: imagine these, but SPARKLY!